From the islands near Placencia…

From Placencia Village…

From downtown San Pedro….

From CBC and PUR!

Since we have opened our second hotel in Belize, in San Pedro, we have had a lot of questions about what a vacation might look or feel like to do both San Pedro AND Placencia in one trip! We have had a number of guests book the package deal and thus far we are getting rave reviews, because Placencia and San Pedro are VERY different – they are like different countries. Recently, we had a group of two single women come down and do both, and they offered to write a guest blog about their adventures here!

Day 1 – Arrive Ambergris Caye. Nelson from PUR picked us up at Maya Air in Ambergris Caye to take us to PUR with bottles of water and a cold towel, much appreciated after our flights. Nelson gave us a quick tour through the town and showed us some hot spots, where we could have a fun time. Then after a quick check in, we suited up and headed to Palapa Bar downtown on the beach. It was the perfect spot after traveling most of the morning. We stopped next door to Wayos. Nancy had a cheese quesadilla. They had great music and atmosphere. It was a perfect casual evening out.

Day 2 – We slept in on our first full day. Such a treat! It was so nice to walk out of our cabana and have a poolside breakfast right at PUR. The omelet was AMAZING. We relaxed in the pool for a few hours and had a slow easy morning. Headed up north in the golf cart. It was a Monday which is a pretty slow day on the island. We spent a few hours at Pacos. Then stopped in Coco Beach. We weren’t able to use the pool, but had a cocktail and enjoyed the scenery. We headed back to PUR to change and freshen up then birthday-eve dinner at RAIN. Went to dinner around 5 so we would see the sunset at 6:25. It was pretty cloudy, so not a great sunset, but FABULOUS views. The food was excellent – ceviche & garlic lobster tail & tuna. They have some great wine choices, including Kim Crawford. Probably best wine menu on the island and they offer a cheese plate. A must do! We stayed North of the bridge all day. We ended the day at the casino at Captain Morgans, had an amazing, fun time at this tiny casino, lost a little $ but the local free drinks made that better. It was great to have $5min US tables for blackjack. You really got to know the dealers and other players because  it was so intimate. It was great to drive a quick few minutes home to PUR!

Day 3 – Tuesday – Shannon work up early and walked down to the beach to enjoys the sunrise at around 5:45. After a slow walk up and down the beach, we had a quick breakfast at PUR before our excursion. We were picked up at PUR and headed downtown to snorkel Hol Chan & Shark Ray Alley. It was a ½ day excursion with plenty of time to snorkel. We saw amazing fish, sting ray, urchins, spikey things, tons of sharks, shells, beautiful coral and of course sharks. By 12:30, we were back at PUR and enjoyed a relaxing poolside lunch. Shannon had the taco bowl that was so good and could have fed two people. Shannon’s birthday celebration began with a clean room and a cute message from the staff. We were going out to dinner, so we had drinks at the pool at PUR and hung out with the outer guests staying there. It was a really fun afternoon. Then off to Nook for dinner downtown. We all indulged on espresso martini and enjoyed a singer on the patio during dinner. We were right on the water – everything was 5 stars, location, service, food and drinks! Off to the crab races at Crazy Canucks. We had to take the golf cart there from downtown, but we were right on the beach. Rob, a fellow Clevelander, owns the bar and has crab races on Tuesday night to raise money for local non-profits. For a few dollars each, we picked out crabs and named them. Rob did the announcing similar to a horserace. It was so fun and great energy. We won a $10 gift card to a local restaurant. They have given over $80,000 to local charities. After, we stopped back downtown at Melt for karaoke. Rashida and Kenny made us feel at home and Nancy sang a song before we left for home.

Day 4 – Wednesday – Shannon headed to Akbol for yoga. They were doing a special yoga practice that was almost 2 hours long. It was amazing. Very relaxing and as a beginner, I felt very comfortable. Kirsten walked around and made sure everyone was doing things right and was encouraging everyone to go at their own pace. After, they welcomed everyone to say and meditate. After 2 hours of yoga, I was good, but the offer was nice. Nancy had breakfast at Akbol and enjoyed relaxing on the hammocks. Then off to Secret Beach – it took about 40 minutes in the golf cart. It was a very scenic ride with a lot of undeveloped properties and waterways with mangroves, etc. There are a lot of bars right by the parking lot when you arrive, but we went the trail to the left to the Blue Bayou. They had picnic tables in the water with a server delivering your drinks. It was excellent service and scenery. We had tacos & chips and queso for lunch. Everything closes down around 6, so we headed back around 5 and stopped by Truck Stop. What a cool spot. Old shipping containers contained a pizza shop, taco shop, southeast asian cuisine, and ice cream. They also play movies on the lagoon, had a great pool, checkers, and other games. It was another full day north of the bridge day.

Day 5 – Thursday – We walked about to have breakfast at Marbucks (turn left out of the property – about an 8 minute walk). We had the quiche and bagel sandwich. Definitely try this one morning. It’s a small spot with just a few tables, and a good vibe on the sand road at the back of the PUR. We turned back to PUR for a few hours in the pool before heading to Caye Caulker. That morning we met up with friends at Dive Bar (also north of the bridge). It was a great spot…we didn’t stay long but had hammocks, lounge chairs and great beach. We then took a 25-minute boat ride to Caye Caulker with a quick stop at Koko King – must do. (They have a free water taxi from Koko King to Caye Caulker). Walked around, had lunch at the Split. While at Caye Caulker the rain came in (we were there during rainy season). It poured rain for about 10 minutes but after, besides a few puddles, you wouldn’t have known it rained. We took a quick ferry back to Ambergris Caye and headed straight to the chicken drop at Wahoo’s. What an experience. We were there early to purchase our tickets. They had about 6 “drops” a night. After everyone purchases their tickets, the winner is chosen by where the chicken “drops”  (poops) on the board. What a trip! We had lucky 35 and won! We were back at PUR around 11, yes it was a late night, and the security officer on the resort showed Nancy an anteater in the tree. We (quietly) relaxed by the pool for a bit, unwinding before bed.

Day 6 – Friday – We were off to Placencia. Nelson took us back to the airport, with a drive on the beach, one last time, and we relaxed in the air-conditioned lounge for 30 minutes before boarding our flight. After a quick stop at the municipal airport, we were picked up by Mr. Dave in Placencia. CBC was just reopening after construction. Many updates happened to the cabanas, casita and the villas. They now have amazing beach beds and everything was freshly restained/painted. From CBC we took a quick walk down the sidewalk to Barefoot Bar and had a delicious lunch with frozen fresh fruit mojitos and margaritas. We returned to CBC for a late afternoon swim in the pool. It was such a relaxing chill day. We ended our evening back at Barefoot Bar for a light dinner. Barefoot will pull you back in again and again during you trip, it really feels like the heart of town and is always warm and welcoming. Placencia in low season is a bit hit and miss with what’s open but there was plenty to do every night – we enjoyed being able to meet and talk to more people since the atmosphere was more intimate – we felt special because there weren’t THAT many tourists in the village, never crowds, and the beach to ourselves most days! It was such a great change from San Pedro, where it was pretty crowded and crazy, and we felt so tanquil and relaxed during our time in Placencia. I recommend people doing San Pedro first if you can so you can rejuvenate in Placencia before you head home.

Day 7 – More adventures! We headed up north to the Waterfalls at Maya King. We stopped on the way at Maya Bistro. The food is fantastic and they have espresso martinis ☺ They have a pool on-site and being right on the water it is picturesque. They are not in the village, but a fun place to visit for a meal. Took a drive up to the waterfalls. For about $10 US we were able to drive up the mountain and explore. There were bathrooms on site and the paths were clear and easy to navigate. The pictures sell it. On the way back, we popped into a few resorts for cocktails and snacks in the Maya Beach area (this is about a 20 minute ride from the village). Belize Ocean Club, Naia and Turtle Inn (this is closer to the village). With the exception of Turtle Inn, we were able to enjoy the amenities of each resort as long as purchased had food and/or drink. That evening we walked into the village for some live music at Cha Chi’s. Shannon had ceviche (again), but Nancy and our friends all had pizza. It was very good New York style pizza, sold by the slice or the whole pie. This is a new place in the village and worth the stop.

Day 8 – RELAXING! We walked down for breakfast at Cozy Corner (because De tatch…Shannon’s favorite, was closed for low season). Had a very relaxing breakfast. It’s always best to not be in a hurry because service can be slow. Then we walked the entire village stopping into souvenir shops, jewelry stores, and art galleries. We finished our day relaxing by the pool at CBC and had a wonderful cookout with friends. There is a gas grill onsite for guests use. The grocery store nearby has everything you need for a beachside BBQ. The pool at CBC is perfect for a boutique hotel, it is really welcoming and comfortable, just big enough and the right temperature to hang out for hours. You can hang under a huge palapa roof in the shade or in the pool on stools.

Day 9 – Last full day in Belize. We walked through the village to the pier to have breakfast at the Shak. This is also a must visit. They have a great variety and it fun to people watch at the pier. We were back at CBC before noon and just relaxed and laid out. In the afternoon we shared a bottle (or two) of wine we had picked up from the duty-free shop at the airport. Man, that was really living. We walked to Rumfish for dinner (best dinner per Shannon)! Shannon had a filet, lobster tail, brussell sprouts and potatoes for $55 BZ ($27.50 US). This dinner in Cleveland could cost nothing less than $60US and it was wonderful. We stopped by Barefoot Bar for a night cap and ran into some friends we made in Ambergris. It really is a small country. It was a great way to end the trip.

Day 10 – Travel ☹ Mr. Dave dropped us off at the Placencia airport and we took the trek home.

While this can be considered a controversial blog – after 5 years of reading countless reviews, blogs, commentary, and posts about Belize – and who is a great fit and who doesn’t like it – there has come a clear picture that I felt might be helpful to share – for those looking to vacation or move to Belize, as you can’t get a real feel for a place until you visit. It is helpful to read an honest and non-marketing post about this topic – because it is a lose-lose if someone comes to Belize and it is not for them. There is no place in the world that is a great fit for everyone, but when you find the right place, it is heaven – and many find that is true for them in Belize. I’d love to hear feedback from others to add to this list!

1.) Belize is not for people who are very sensitive to heat and bugs; Belize is a tropical climate and it is HOT year round – some people love this and pick Belize for this reason – there are days where there can be little wind, which can bring out the bugs – and a person who is a good fit for Belize heads for an over the water bar/restaurant (where there is always a breeze and no bugs), takes a dip, goes to Secret Beach or a local pool, or finds shade and a hammock. I have seen others staggering around downtown forcing a shopping trip or something else, instead of being flexible to what the weather brings, and then complaining about the heat. Also – you may find you confront a cockroach, scorpion, mosquitos, or other things that bite during your time here. The tropics kind of come with that – and you DO get desensitized over time, I should know with my initial heebie jeebie-ness with bugs, but you just get over it, spray some deet, find some breeze, and deal. If you feel this is something you could not ever deal with, you may not be happy in your time here; most people find ways to manage.

2.) Belize is not for people who are rigid about schedules and systems, or are sensitive to last minute changes or unexpected turns of events. Belize is a developing country – and systems are not always perfect. By a long shot. I am personally amazed by the level of services available in remote areas and islands in this developing country – and am grateful to be able to live in a tropical climate with what I see as few inconveniences when it comes to infrastructure like electricity, water, or wifi. In the last 5 years I can count a few times where I was “inconvenienced” by something going out at a bad time, but never has it been a hideously remarkable deal. I remember one morning the water went out right before I was to get on a plane. No shower – I still had options – the pool 🙂 or grab some baby wipes and make do! On the other hand, I have seen more times than I can shake a stick at – reviews and complaints about the wifi, water, electricity – and I have to be honest – if it would really upset you to lose one of these services for a couple hours or even a day, and it would ruin your trip – I would stick to first world places – even there this can happen, but realistically it is going to be more of an issue in the developing world. Yes – the ATM machine is going to not work sometimes – but isn’t it amazing how many places take credit cards? Yes – the wifi might be slow right now, but isn’t it amazing that we have it on an island in the middle of the Caribbean in a developing country, as well as it works? If you come to Belize, you’ll be happier if you have some ability to have a contingency plan or a flexible, easygoing spirit. The business owners and locals work hard to make a nice experience for guests and can’t control everything – but everyone tries very hard to create an unforgettably warm and welcoming experience.

**Edited to note – this goes for issues like Sargassum as well. Many people ask why the villages don’t do more to tackle seaweed – there are MANY reasons but most of all, because they do the best they can with what they have to work with…it’s a long topic that has been covered in other posts.

3.) Belize is not for people sensitive to food/food allergies/needs for specific foods – Because this is a developing country, there are not culinary schools or really strict regulations. A cutting board MAY be used for shellfish and then veggies. Probably less of a problem at higher end restaurants and resorts. But part of the remarkable food scene here is the food trucks, stands, stalls, and people walking around with their goodies. There is no CISCO trucks delivering processed pre-made bags of broccoli cheese soup in Belize – everything down to the tortillas is made from scratch – and it tastes like it. You know how you can tell the difference between a dinner at Applebee’s and a food truck meal in the US – the homemade quality? That is Belize food and it is amazing. BUT – many times you are going to have your heart set on guacamole, lionfish, mangoes, whatever – and the place is going to say we are out. It happens, and it is common – there is often one road into a village and limited deliveries – and small freezers and such to store things. If you want vegan or vegetarian foods – at some places you are really going to have to spell out what that means – those are not typical meal plans/lifestyles in Belize. On some cayes, food comes a loooooong way over on a boat – and sometimes the food isn’t the freshest by the time you get it home, if you buy it from the stores. It is helpful to roll with this, and learn to buy food that is as local as possible and be flexible with the inconsistent nature of the imported goods. For those that find the food terribly expensive – please note that the learning curve is a bit high here – many that live here have learned to eat for cheaper and healthier than they could in the US – but it requires flexibility and willingness to change habits (cooking from scratch, using local food etc.) Those that find this unsettling may not be happy here. Oh – there is only the tiniest selection of beer and the imported alcohol is really expensive – if you don’t like Belikin or the local liquors, but you like to drink, you probably won’t like it here.

4.) Belize is not for people who need external regulations and rules/need to be told the appropriate level of risk to take – One of the most exhilarating, freeing, yet scary things about Belize, is the choose-your-own-level-of-risk nature about it. There ARE laws and these laws can be implemented at any time – but enforcement is inconsistent. You will see people driving their golf carts drinking, smoking marijuana in public….you will see people jumping off boats, swimming with sharks and rays (no liability to sign!), you’ll see clearly unregulated businesses all over the place, loud music, barking dogs, you’ll see building going on where you can be pretty sure there are no permits, and you’ll hear ALL manner of things that if you find the right person – you can get it done. If you are nice to and bring donuts to the right people, it is amazing what you can accomplish. The rules just aren’t like the US where our culture is pretty rigid about toeing the line, and many people do not care for this fuzzy-regulations culture. We are a guest in the country and whether we find it right or wrong, or think it should be changed or better – it was like this before we got here and it is a young country. This is hard for some to stomach when you come from a culture where you are told things like a small passionate group can change the world. You will find groups of expats living here on opposite ends of this spectrum – and it is helpful to understand where both sides are coming from; most people’s intentions are in the right place, but outside intervention/opinions are not always welcomed.

5.) Belize is not for people that are sensitive to political correctness – the political correctness on every level is different here. You will see some uncared for animals and parenting choices that would get a hard time in the US. You will notice and experience that the prices you are charged as a “gringo” are not what the locals are charged. You will see a hierarchy in the ethnic classes here, inequality between men and women, or unchecked signs of poverty. You will see outsiders come in, build, and leave things half finished to rot, and you will see areas where prices are pushed up to the point where locals can’t afford to live in their own towns. You will see people from all over the world who come here with less than good intentions, and leave it worse than they found it, and give outsiders a bad name. It can be very frustrating and Belize is a very, very young country – a lot of kinks to work out – and if it sounds exhausting to be at the foundational level of this change in a country – it may not be for you. This also allows for the good to come out – many, many good people come here with the best intentions and do leave Belize better than they found it, and are humble, flexible, and helpful, and are an asset to their communities (in my opinion these outweigh the bad by far!)

6.) Belize is not for people who are freaked out by the crime rate – it is no secret that Belize has a high crime rate, but the areas where tourists go are about the same as anywhere in the world – if anytime a crime comes out in the news, it is going to traumatize you – it might be too stressful to be in Belize. Belize is a tiny population and there is crime – but the chances of something major happening to you here are statistically small. Belize’s largest city, Belize City, accounts for a little over half the major crimes, and this is generally personal, drug or organized crime related. Most major crimes in other parts of Belize are of a personal nature. Belize does not have a large “suburban” population to absorb the crime of Belize City, so the per capita rate looks bad. There have been crimes committed against outsiders here, where it appears to be random, and while it is VERY hard to come up with hard numbers – there are a million visitors to Belize every year. There are about 20(?) significant crimes against outsiders per year (we are talking major stuff, not petty theft) – this is about a .00002 chance of you being randomly severely injured in Belize. If you do things like leave your common sense at home – which is seen here plenty – leaving phones out of tables, leaving bags unsecured, leaving doors unlocked – petty theft is pretty common – but if you stay grounded with where you are and take an extra moment to be careful – you severely limit your problems. Again it is a young country and there is not exactly a forensic crimes unit in every town – and there is no ADT home security. But criminals don’t have access to the degree of weapons like in the US, so you aren’t bringing a knife to a gun fight. Securing your stuff (burglar bars, good locks) is pretty basic and easy to do. And, there is no random mass shootings here!

7.) Belize is not for travelers who need to shop, spa, golf, and be pampered – Belize is a rustic, developing place, and while there are some amazing spas and resorts where you don’t have to leave the confines of the place – this is not the point of Belize. Belize is not meant for the all-inclusive crowd – there is very little shopping, the spas are rustically awesome but also not like LA, there is a lot of open-air, non a/c dining and walking, there are almost NO chains with predictable options for your comfort, there aren’t escalators, elevators, shade and misters everywhere. It is kind of do-it-yourself; many people are very comfortable here, but it takes a flexible spirit to figure it out. This is an outdoor culture, if you are in indoor person, you will struggle. If you are really comfortable at Disney, Myrtle Beach, or Palm Springs, you are going to find this is the opposite end of the spectrum. There is no predictable, regulated, scrubbed clean tourist areas – the beauty of coming to Belize is to interact with the village/town culture and get a little challenged. This is NOT a materialistic culture – fancy shoes, bags, cars etc look very out of place here. Everyone here hangs out at the same places for the most part. Those that breathe a sigh of relief to wear $2 flip flops and their wet hair in a bun, with a bathing suit on under their gym-looking clothes will love it here. Again – set-apart resorts with first world amenities do exist where you do not interact with local culture – but you can do that anywhere and this is not the crowd Belize has historically attracted. In fairness – Belize is in a transition right now, with many new high end resorts, hotels, chains, and condos coming – but it is slooooooooow.

8.) And finally, to be honest here, Belize is not for people with health problems or disabilities – being a young country, there are not regulations or supports in place for most health problems or even things like wheelchair access. I met a great individual in a wheelchair who recently moved here, and he was making a go of it – so it can be done – but he said the few ramps there are – are the wrong degree and are quite difficult. He appeared to have a lot of grit and I would say you would need to have that quality. There are few health care resources here for chronic problems, or emergency services, and while there are clinics that do a GREAT job with what they have to work with – this is a developing country issue and Belize as a whole is not there yet. There are also few counseling or mental health services, even social security and social programs are in their infancy.

While this list comes across perhaps a bit harsh…it is the reality of living or traveling to a developing country. Why would people want to come here? I have about 50 blogs on this topic. I feel like Belize is on a cusp of many wonderful changes, many growing pains right now – but to be part of the experience of a young country that has been welcoming and warm to me and dozens of friends and family I brought here numerous times, who come again and again, and have fallen in love with it too, not to mention the thousands of happy/too-many-to-count repeat guests we have the honor of hosting at our hotels in Belize…to experience the refreshing way of life here in so many ways, to rethink what makes you happy and what is important, to stop trying to keep up with the neighbors and materialism, to experience the staggering degree of nature experiences here – waterfalls, mountains, jungle, the reef, the prettiest water, beaches, palm trees, to stay in a thatched-roof cabana and eat the most simple and delicious food, to hear local drumming and music, to have the opportunity to live where people come from all over the world to relax and dive, feels like a privilege!

Lobsterfest is in full swing every weekend around this time every year. Both San Pedro and Placencia (and Caye Caulker has one too) go NUTS for the opening of Lobster season, and it is really, really endearing – everyone gets into it, bartenders wear lobster hats, the steel drum music, the crowds – just super fun, and if you’ve never experienced it – you really want to be here for it next year. In fact you can make both festivals by splitting your time.